El vino del Emperador

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                                                                                                    El vino del Emperador

La economía de Valdárrago ha dependido históricamente del vino y el aceite, aunque también tuvieron su importancia otros productos como: miel, cera, castañas, hortalizas, etc. La vid, probablemente, fue introducida por los romanos, como ocurrió en otras partes de la península Ibérica. La presencia romana está atestiguada tanto en Robledillo (ara votiva) como en Descargamaría (minas de oro). De época visigoda data una piedra labrada que representa un pámpano con un racimo de uvas que se encuentra en la ermita de San Miguel de las viñas en Robledillo. Quizá fuese durante la ocupación musulmana y la posterior huida de los habitantes del Valle del Árrago hacia el norte de la península en busca de un lugar seguro, cuando la vid más próxima estuvo a su desaparición. La Reconquista y la presencia de las Órdenes Militares, que darán seguridad y estabilidad a las tierras recién conquistadas, permitirán a los colonos expandir e intensificar el cultivo de la vid.

El rey Enrique III, en 1348, concede a los pueblos de Valdárrago el privilegio por el que se lleva a cabo el deslinde y amojonamiento de su término. Este primer paso servirá para establecer la base jurídica sobre la que posteriormente tendrá lugar un incipiente desarrollo económico que garantizará la subsistencia a quienes decidieron asentarse en el valle del Árrago. Con ello se pretendía que estas tierras de presura, duramente disputadas durante la Reconquista a los musulmanes, atrajesen colonos que las roturasen y apacentasen en con sus ganados en armonía y vecindad con Ciudad Rodrigo y su Tierra, al norte, y la todo poderosa Orden de Alcántara, al sur. Lo que raramente ocurrió.

A partir de la Edad Media, la corona, en los sucesivos privilegios concedidos a los habitantes de Valdárrago, les otorgará el derecho de plantar vides y olivos. Dicha prerrogativa real también se hará extensiva, a lo largo de los siglos, al comercio del vino. Facultando a sus habitantes para que pudieran comercializarlo en las ferias de Castila. A pesar de ello, estas ventas no estarán exentas de polémicas, lo que motiva que los Reyes Católicos, en 1495, antes las quejas que les hacen llegar los concejos de Valdárrago, manden una carta a los corregidores y regidores de Ciudad Rodrigo, instándoles a que no les impidan a los moradores de estas villas la venta de vino en Ciudad Rodrigo y su Tierra. Así, les ordena también, que no les requisen y roben el vino que los labradores de Valdárrago llevan a las ferias de Medina del Campo y Salamanca y cualesquiera otros lugares de sus reinos.

Los Monroy, señores de Valdárrago, tuvieron el vino entre los productos más valorados y apreciados de las tierras de su señorío. Por ello, no era raro, que entre las rentas que exigían cada año a sus habitantes figurase el vino. Tal afición y gusto tenían por el vino de estas tierras sus señores que, ante la negativa de los lugareños a hacer efectiva la entrega de éste, los forzaban a ello. Como consecuencia de este abuso y atropello, las villas de Robledillo, Descargamaría y Puñonrostro pidieron justicia y entablaron pleito con Francisco de Monroy, su señor. La más alta instancia jurídica del reino en aquel momento, la Chancillería de Valladolid, después de oír a las parte dictó sentencia, eximiendo a las villas de Valdárrago de la obligación de prestar la dúa y llevar vino al señor de Monroy, Francisco de Monroy y a sus sucesores, imponiéndoles la prohibición de que nunca más volvieran a exigir dicha prestación.

La posesión y tenencia de viñas fue siempre muy valorada, ya que el vino tenía una fuerte demanda y más cuando se sumaba a ésta la calidad, tal como acontecía con los caldos de Valdárrago. A esta valoración no fueron ajenas las monjas del convento de Sancti Spiritus de Valdárrago de la Orden de San Francisco de la Tercera Regla de Penitencia que vieron en sus viñas una forma de obtener suculentos ingresos. Así, mediante censos, arrendaban sus viñedos a terceros, no sin antes especificar claramente las condiciones. En ellas se establecía que las viñas debían de estar debidamente atendidas en cuanto a las labores que requerían para la obtención de una buena cosecha. La renta del censo, establecida en el contrato, no se cobraba en dinero sino en el apreciado vino. Así, en el censo que la abadesa y monjas de Sancti Spiritus otorgan a un vecino de Robledillo en 1559, exigen a éste la entrega de veintiocho cántaros de vino, la mitad tinto y la otra blanco, como renta anual por tres cuartas de una viña que tienen en el paraje de Tejares.

Es en el siglo XVI cuando los vinos de Descargamaría y Robledillo de Valdárrago consiguen la impronta literaria que reflejará la fama que han adquirido en los mercados castellanos donde son comercializados. Miguel de Cervantes (1547-1616) en sus Novelas Ejemplares, en concreto en El Licenciado Vidriera, traza con su pluma el mapa de los vinos más afamados de su tiempo y en él reserva un lugar especial para el vino de Descargamaría. En “El Licenciado Vidriera” se narra, como tras una azarosa travesía, Tomás Rodaja y su capitán llegan a Génova. Tan penosa ha sido ésta que para olvidar las fatigas y penalidades que han pasado en la mar, deciden saciar su hambre y sed en una hostería. Sentados a la mesa, durante el ágape, el protagonista rememora, los que a su juicio y a juicio de Miguel de Cervantes, pueden ser considerados los mejores vinos del tiempo que les ha tocado vivir. “Y habiendo hecho el huésped la reseña de tantos y tan diferentes vinos; se ofreció parecer allí, sin usar de tropelía ni como pintados en mapa, sino real y verdaderamente, a Madrigal, Coca, Alaejos, y a la Imperial más que Real Ciudad, recámara del Dios de la risa; Ofreció a Esquivias, a Alanis, a Cazalla, Guadalcanal y la Membrilla, sin que se olvidase de Ribadavia y de Descargamaría”. Otra referencia literaria del siglo XVI, donde se alaba el vino de Descaramaría, la podemos encontrar en “Las Obras Festivas” de Eugenio Salazar (1530-1602). En esta ocasión es a través de una loa o canto lírico y festivo como el autor ensalza, por boca de uno de sus protagonistas, el vino que un santero le ofrece al pie de una ermita. “Por más sanos y seguros amores tengo los del santero que vuestra merced y yo hallamos en la ermita de Nuestra Señora de La Paz, con la bota de vino de Descargamaría al lado, abrazándola y besándola, de ratillo en ratillo, y cantando: Si amores me han de matar, agora tengan lugar.” Alonso de Toro, otro autor del siglo XVI, en su obra “Coplas hechas por Alonso de Toro, cojo, sobre la abundancia de vino que Dios nos ha dado”, cita el vino de Robledillo. “…Villarino y la ribera/y la villa de Fermoselle/mucho vino, en gran manera,/más suave que la miel./En toda Sierra de Gata,/en la Torre y Robledillo,/ no sabéis como abarata,/ a maravedí el cuartillo.”

Durante el siglo XVI la fama del vino de Robledillo y Descargamaría adquiere tal fama que llegará a la mesa del hombre más poderoso del orbe en ese momento, el emperador Carlos V. En una carta al Secretario de Estado, Juan Vázquez de Molina, fechada el 11 de Octubre de 1555 en Bruselas, el emperador le hace saber de su próxima llegada a España y su intención de arribar en Laredo, Santander o Bilbao, para que disponga lo necesario para su recibimiento y el de su familia. Entre las obligaciones que dicta a Vázquez de Molina le ordena que fray Juan de Ortega se encuentre en Valladolid cuando él llegue, para que aprenda a elaborar la receta de vino de Sen que previamente le envía por escrito. Fray Juan de Ortega fue monje jerónimo, obispo de Chiapas (México) y General de la Orden. Algunos críticos literarios le atribuyen la autoría del Lazarillo de Tormés y él será quien se encargue de preparar el rito del emperador Carlos V en el monasterio de Yuste. En el preparado del vino de Sen del emperador los vinos que se requieren son los Descargamaría y Robledillo. “Apenas se recibió este despacho, se hizo el ensayo con toda puntualidad, encomendándolo a fray Juan Ortega, que paso a Plasencia y de allí a Robledillo y Descargamaría, pueblos de la Tierra de Gata, donde pareció que era más cómodo preparar el vino.”

Juan Carlos García Delgado

Sin categoría | 27 noviembre 2015

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